28th February to 19th March 2026

12th March 2026

11th March 2026

On the road from Udaipur to Narlai (10th March), we stopped to have a look at “The Great Wall of India”; a massive fortified hilltop citadel that has a circumference of over 45km. Incredibly impressive and yet more proof that we know nothing about this wonderful country. We also stopped off to have a look at a Jain temple complex that is better described by the pictures.

Narlai is not a large town and on first impressions, a bit of a sh*t h*le. Narrow filthy streets with muck and mess in every nook and cranny. Finally our route took us up yet another squalid alley, through an arch and into……Paradise! A historic, heritage hotel with a couple of pretty little courtyards and small yet comfortable rooms around the ​ perimeter. We had a quick pizza for lunch and then a bit of rest before being taken by bullock cart (I rode in a jeep to protect my spine), through the inky darkness to a thousand year old step well just outside town. This is an impressive form of civil engineering to provide water for the local population but not used these days. The whole complex was lit by over 1,100 candles and lanterns for us to enjoy an al fresco meal under the stars. What a treat.

Today (11th March) was a very long haul of nearly 450km to Jaisalmer on the edge of the Thar desert and quite close to the frontier with Pakistan. Not much to report on the drive, just long, long modern roads, occasional towns and searing heat. We felt sorry for our fellow tourists in their older cars as 40°C (105°F) without a/c isn’t much fun. At long last a hotel with half decent WiFi!

11th March 2026

First off, some overdue photographs:

8th & 9th March 2026

We left Sawai Madhopur very early to try and beat he traffic for our 405km drive to Udaipur. Once out of town and into rural India proper, the traffic was pretty light and certainly not as manic. We still had to keep our wits about us all the time for the usual reasons.

Through some pleasant countryside we filled up the Toyota’s tank for the first time in Lakheri. 55 ltr for 5,000IRP seems like decent value – just over £40:00 but neither my pre-paid travelling cash card nor Penny’s Post Office card (with no fees) worked in the card-swipe but thankfully we had enough cash and were soon on our way again. Apparently it can be hit and miss with these machines in India.

Soon after we passed a huge herd of camels being driven along the road. They looked very pale, young, fresh and not as weary as most we’ve come across. Later we met lots of other livestock being led along the road, several more camels, goats, odd looking sheep and even cattle. Is Sunday market day in India? Eventually we pulled into the Hadoti Palace hotel for lunch in the historic town of Bundi. A quick bite and no time to see the sights we were soon back on the road. Lots of toll booths, some of which were fine and other took ages to read our windscreen card properly but in my opinion I’m amazed they worked at all considering the condition of the wiring and equipment visible. Some of the main roads were tolerable at best; the norm is appallingly badly broken, rough and honestly hazardous. There were always sudden, unmarked and vicious speed bumps at random places everywhere to catch one out.

We came to the hill fort town of Chittorgarth and managed to pick the right route to drive up to the entrance. Chaos as is the norm but now with added hawkers trying suicidally to get us to stop, pay for parking and expensive tuk tuk rides to the top of the hill. We managed to dodge them all and had a super drive around the inner perimeter road with fantastic views (sometimes through the thick pollution laden air) of the surrounding countryside. It is a huge defensive creation and we drove about 20km before we were back out.

We finally arrived in Uidapur in good time for a bit of a rest, scrub up and meal at our hotel, the Taj Fateh Prakash Palace inside the ancient city walls. Our room is splendid with a super view over the Pichola Lake and the beautiful White Marble Palace on an island just outside our window.

Today (9th) we were were taken on a very well organised guided tour of the Warrior King, Maharana’s enormous palace. Beautifully preserved and intricate in so many details it was very well worth the visit. Sadly were weren’t invited into the private domestic quarters as he and his family still live there but after a brief wander we were escorted to a Jain family’s private museum of textiles, furniture and more. Naturally there was a retail opportunity there. Afterwards, some of our party went to a private session with a tailor and have been promised jackets and trousers finished and delivered to the hotel tonight. We didn’t avail of that offer.

Tonight – dinner on the White Marble Palace island (famous from the James Bond film Octopussy) but that report will have to come later with some pics.

7th March 2026

This took nearly two hours to upload. You might want to change the quality setting to 720p

5th & 6th March 2026

I’m writing this in Sawai Madhopur on Saturday after our second and third day on the road. WiFi is nearly always available but truthfully not terribly good. and while we’re staying in the same group of Taj Hotels so far, I haven’t been able to sign in so have reverted to my trusty old SkyRoam that picks up 4G cellular network and gives me a local hotspot.

Driving from Samode was pretty uneventful (if ever you can say that about the roads in India). Main highways back to Jaipur ring-road then finally a good stretch of main road with less and less manic traffic. The scenery gradually became more rural with agriculture becoming more and more evident. Penny has endured what I think was a mild dose of Delhi Belly – to be expected – while I have really suffered with the pollution. I now have a real forty cigarettes a day hacking cough; the sort of thing that was 100% usual back in the days of a smog filled reporter’s room in the newspaper.

In Samode we were treated to a demonstration of Turban tying and wearing and we were all suitably decorated.

The party were then taken on a safari jeep ride through the village and brought back by camel cart. I decided against the second part as my lower back is suffering with the shocks and jolts on the terrible roads so stayed in the jeep (still not great). To be honest, We are not a huge fan of these types of trips, like viewing the animals in a zoo; it just isn’t for us.

Then some fireworks, singing and dancing before cocktails in the Maharaja’s mirrored salon before a very grand dinner in an incredible ornate tiled Durbar banquet hall.

After a huge (over an hour long) traffic jam on the way into the city, we arrived at the hotel in Madhopur. Some of the group set off on a Tiger safari in the nearby nature reserve but didn’t really see much while I rested my back and lungs. A barbecue supper then off to bed. This morning there was another safari apparently with better results for some.

I’ve tried uploading a small 4 minute video and so far it has taken over an hour so please bear with me on the pictures / video front.

3rd & 4th March 2026

Last night was a pretty full-on experience of Indian culture. Holi is the celebration of the end of dark winter and the coming longer bright days of spring and hence all the fertility that comes with it.

Lots of chanting then a ritual pyre that we were all invited to burn a handful of the season’s first ears of grain – barley I think – then dancing, tons of chucking petals finished off with a feast.

Correction to my description yesterday, this hotel isn’t a relic of the old colonial era but a genuine former Rajput palace that was then downgraded to become a hunting lodge and eventually sold into commerce to become a hotel. Pretty impressive I think you’ll agree from the photograph.

The feast was described to us as representative of “street food”. Lots of little dishes; at least forty different tables, all with something different and all that we tried were delicious – from mild and fragrant to full blown nuclear pile explosive heat.

Today there was the better known Holi tradition – bonkers chucking of natural brightly coloured dyes at each other. Thankfully we were provided with traditional Indian long cotton shirts and tight cotton leggings. Now, I don’t by any means consider myself portly but there was absolutely no way I could fit the ‘large’ size provided.. Lots of fun then in the afternoon there was an option of a coach ride to visit the Jaipur Fort. Because of the 35° heat we decided that there would be plenty of forts to see later in the trip and took the rest of the day off.

There will be videos later. In the meantime, click on any image to dee the full, larger version.

3rd March 2026

Well, we’re on the road at last. I think everyone was getting a bit twitchy to get started but, that said, we all needed a good break to catch up on our sleep so that our concentration is 100% for Indian roads.

We left the car park and then re-enterd the hotel’s main entrance for a blessing and ceremonial launch into Delhi’s rush-hour gridlock. More “Red on the Head” and a special token on the bonnet to ensure good karma.

Actually the traffic wasn’t too bad. Yes it was incredibly congested and certainly insanely haphazard by western standards but there was absolutely no agression as all the vehicles wove in and out and around each other. I quickly got into “India Mode” with thumb on the horn and absolutely no eye contact with anything on the right as we pulled out of junctions or changed lanes. It all seem to work so maybe our karma is half decent; here’s hoping it lasts.

Once the traffic thinned a bit as we left the city, the speed could be increased; but not too much. A good cruising speed of between 80 and 110 kph ( 50 – 70 mph) was quite comfortable. Even at speed there is a fair bit of weaving and the occasional moped, car or truck coming the wrong way on the innermost lane keeps you on your toes. Ovartaking on the inside is the norm, even almost on the (non existant) hard shoulder. Even passing through small towns where traffic lights seem to be only advisory when red, not compulsory, it wasn’t too bad. The cows also seemed to play fair and stick to the verges or central reservation.

About 75K out, we pulled over for coffee but only nescafe I’m afraid so quickly headed on to an al fresco lunch at Shapura Stables where they breed Hindustan war horses. They are very finely built with odd shaped ears, a bit like Scooby Doo’s – curled in at the top. After a decent lunch accompanied by a “cabaret” of three traditional musicians we set off again for the next 70 or so Km to the Rambagh Palace Hotel in Jaipur.

This is another gigantic colonial edifice where hospitality is of the highest order.

Tonight we will begin “Holi The Hand” celebrations before dinner so goodness knows what will happen. All along today’s route we’ve seen hundreds of folk absolutely covered in all sorts of vibrant, bright couloured dyes. I think that experience has been lined up for us tomorrow morning.

There will be videos when I get around to sorting them

Keep watching!

1st March 2026

Yesterday we were taken on a tour of “The Full Chaos” that is Old Delhi. Being Sunday it is apparently only running at half throttle so goodness knows what it’s like on other days. Thousands of people, stalls selling fruit, nuts, spices, herbs, toys, shirts, shoes, dresses and everything else under the sun not to mention the dazzling coulours available for the Festival of Holi that starts today (1st March). The stalls were set up in front of shops that were closed today and only some of the narrowest alleys were relatively quiet.

Full on traffic jam of rickshaws, Tuk Tuks, motor cycles, people and of course holy cows. Never before have Penny and & been assaulted by so much noise, colour, smell and general racket – absolutely wonderful.

In the evening we all had our first ‘proper’ group dinner in “The Orient Express” themed restaurant in the hotel. A rail carriage styled room served by first class liveried staff. Wonderful food and great company. We finally hooked up with Eunice and Michael McInerney, a couple that arrived later than expected and who we haven’t seen since Portugal in 2018 and Japan in 2017; unusually the only other couple we have met before this rally

28th February Pt 2

I’m having a bit of a siesta mid afternoon and was pleasantly surprised when a complimentary gift arrived – some (washed) soft fruit.

28th February 2026

Went out shopping and took a hotel limo to make things easier. Our most excellent driver, Deepak couldn’t have been more helpful. We are now fully stocked with tonic (for bedroom G&T) and nibbles for the journey ahead. I think that Indian supermarkets are the most manic we’ve ever experienced around the world. The bottles of water, hand cream and wet wipes are complimentary in the back of the limos.

27th February 2026

Yesterday was a long day from Belfast, via a lengthy layover in Heathrow and eventually to Delhi. Honestly, the BA service is not up to scratch with poor service and average food but still, we’re here.

At the airport we met up with John Bridgen and Claire and were whisked off by our local tour fixer, Lokesh to our first billet in India, the Taj Palace Hotel – a huge edifice poking up through the local forest. And very palatial too with lots of marble, liveried flunkies and service at the merest glance. A quick brunch then a bit of a snooze brought us back to life and a wonderful Chinese dinner.

Naturally we woke up too late for breakfast but we managed to cadge some yoghurt, fruit and eggs in the Taj Club.

It turns out this area is full of diplomatic missions and military stations so we feel pretty safe going out to look for a supermarket and ATM.

15th February 2026

A couple of days ago Penny & I sat down to fill in our online Visa applications for India. What bl**dy faff! The web site is one of the most obstructive and counter-intuitive ones I’ve ever seen; so much information required, not just about us but also our parents and the inputting format is quite often odd to say the least. After about a couple of hours we saved everything and stopped for lunch. When we signed back in, guess what, about 2/3rds of the information had vanished so back to the very beginning and start again. After a total of just over four hours, fee paid and finally, after an overnight wait, the confirmation (below) is received.

8th January 2026

OK.

It’s about six weeks before we jet off to Delhi for the “Royal Rajasthan” rally and our preparation has begun. The lovely people in The Map Shop delivered our working map of the territory a couple of days ago and clever old Santa delivered a tourist guide so we’re sitting down to sketch out the route and fill in the info on our overnight stops.

Penny is on the wonderweb shopping for replacement suitcases as ours came back from the Namibia trip in very poor condition. They looked as though they had been dropped from very high places and then run over by the luggage delivery trucks. One even had the zipper tags cut away from the locks so we assume that someone was trying to rob us of something valuable. I actually feel sorry (not really) for the perpetrator because the bag they picked was the one full of dirty laundry.

Last weekend Penny picked up some fresh mosquito spray (non deet) and a topical treatment spot pen but yesterday we returned them because the best before dates expired last July.

Next we’ll start laying out clothes and trying to calculate what will be packed where and I’ll have to decide on what camera kit to take.

More soon……………..

Well, we’ve signed up for this huge trip to India. We have experienced “India Light” with our trip to Sri Lanka some time ago and to be honest, I’ve always considered this country with some trepidation. Friends we made on the P2P in 2007 and met again in 2010 on the Orkney & Shetland trip drove across the top of India in 1997 on Philip Young’s first P2P. Jerry recalled that he occasionally he still woke in the middle of the night with cold sweats after that experience. He described the better sections, on nice new, modern dual carriageways like this:

“Imagine a nice straightish bit of road and sharing it with all sorts of other traffic; not just trucks (something to behold from your worst nightmares), cars and motorcycles but whole families, walking, strolling or all mounted on a Honda 50 and using all the lanes, hard shoulders and central reservations. Then again, there are also the donkeys, holy cows and even elephants wandering about as well. Other traffic, well, there’s everything you can imagine, and some more, but not always going in the same direction, on both carriageways at the same time.”

This from the organisers:

“DRIVING IN INDIA
While negotiating the usual lorries and buses you need to keep a sharp eye out for camels, bullock carts, cyclists, Tuk-tuks, pedestrians, motorcycles and even elephants! It’s street life, but not as you know it!.

NEVER A DULL MOMENT
With the aim of providing time to enjoy the countryside, people and history, the rally has ample rest days to accommodate a series of superb activities such as tours of the historic sights of Delhi and other cities, time to walk the Open Air Museum that is Mandawa, a camel ride and dinner under the desert stars in Jaisalmer, a visit to the historic Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur and much more.

UDAIPUR
From Udaipur, the City of Lakes, you can visit the ‘Great Wall of India’, take a boat trip on Lake Pichola from your exotic Leela Palace Hotel, or visit the Crystal Gallery in the City Palace, or even inspect the classic car collection of the Maharana of Udaipur.”

I’ll update this page as we get more info.